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Learn how to
install your central vacuum unit.
 By
understanding a Central Vacuum System, the project you will be undertaking is basically a
straightforward job which does not require special
skills or tools and can be done within hours.
Installation is simple, but remember; take your time and
consider everything before cutting into a wall of floor,
and be sure to check for hidden electrical wires or
plumbing and heating equipment...If you're just
replacing the central vacuum canister and not installing
a whole system, it should simply take less than 20
minutes.
Can I Install A Central Vacuum Myself?
Absolutely!
Any do-it-yourselfer that is even somewhat handy should
be able to install a central vacuum. There are no
special tools required, just a few common ones found
around the house. If you choose not to do it yourself,
any handyman, plumber, contractor etc. would be able to
install it. Remember, the job is easy to do and
typically takes less than a day...
As our free gift to you, a helpful installation DVD
is now included in our all-in-one complete packages.
Our friendly and knowledgeable technical
staff is here to help as well, just call us at
1-800-322-2965.
  
Recommended Number of Central Vacuum Inlet Valves
When determining the number of inlet valves it is
important to provide maximum coverage with a minimum
number of inlet valves. However, there are not a maximum
number of valves per unit. As a general rule of thumb,
the approximate number of inlet valves needed for a home
can be calculated by dividing the total square footage
by 600 (if a 30-foot hose is being used) The inlets
should be accessible and convenient to use. You should
choose central locations on interior walls which will
allow you to clean several rooms from one inlet. you
should also consider where the furniture will be. Too
many vacuum inlets dont make sense! Most of them would
never be used anyway as the hose is long enough.
Try this method for determining your inlet locations.
Cut a 30 foot piece of string and tie one end to a heavy
object or have a helper hold it at the planned location.
Next, tie the other end of the string to a 3 foot long
stick (or to the system's cleaning wand itself). While
beginning at the location farthest from the central
vacuum power unit,
use the stick and string as a substitute for the central vacuum
hose and wand. Make sure you reach all parts of the
floor and ceiling and allow for the hose looping around
large furniture. The inlet location itself should not be
blocked by furniture or placed on a wall where it will
be blocked behind an open door. Move toward the power
unit location; use this method to outline all your
cleaning zones and to determine the exact location of
all your wall inlets. Allow for some overlap in cleaning
zones. Take some time and experiment with different
locations until you find the number of inlets you need
and the most convenient locations for your hose. Inlet
valves can be situated between studs, clear of plumbing,
wiring, heating ducts, etc. In new home installations,
the system is installed after electric and plumbing, but
before drywall.
Central Vacuum Inlets - Where to place them
 First
Consider
Where the furniture will be.
Where the telephone table will be.
If there will be a flower vase there
Will this be the place of your favorite armchair.
Quantity of Central Vacuum Inlets
To many vacuum inlets does not make sense! Most of them
would never be used anyway as the hose is long enough.
The inlets should be accessible and convenient to use.
You should choose central locations on interior walls
which will allow you to clean several rooms from one
inlet. Some of the ideal locations are in hallways, at
the bottom of stairs, and near doorways.
Try this method for determining your inlet locations.
Cut a 30 foot piece of string and tie one end to a heavy
object or have a helper hold it at the planned location.
Next, tie the other end of the string to a 3 foot long
stick (or to the system's cleaning wand itself).
Beginning at the location farthest from the power unit,
use the stick and string as a substitute for the vacuum
hose and wand. Make sure you reach all parts of the
floor and ceiling and allow for the hose looping around
large furniture. The inlet location itself should not be
blocked by furniture or placed on a wall where it will
be blocked behind an open door. Move toward the power
unit location, use this method to outline all your
cleaning zones and to determine the exact location of
all your wall inlets. Allow for some overlap in cleaning
zones. Take some time and experiment with different
locations until you find the number of inlets you need
and the most convenient locations for your hose.
Helpful Tips
Calculate later obstacles such as furniture,
appliances additional wall etc. ALWAYS OVER LAP (as
shown below).
You
should be able to reach your complete 100% dwelling or house
comfortably with the flexible hose including the highest
corner at ceiling height, have easy access to stairways, you
should not be using a portable vacuum to do this, it would
be mad!
Don't Forget The Cars!
If it is structurally possible, install a vacuum inlet
valve, near the main entry door(s) so that you can also
reach outside during the summer months.
Without a garage? You have a carport of just a parking bay
near the house; you do not have to do without your central
vacuum system! Install a vacuum inlet valve on the outside
wall.
 Floor
Mounted Inlet Vales
While the normal installation of inlet valves is in
partition walls, occasionally one must be installed in
the floor. In this case the location for the inlet valve
should be about two inches from the wall and not in a
high traffic area. As with wall installations, use a
pilot hole drill to make sure the location is clear of
obstructions below. Cut a hole that is
2-1/2" x 4-3/8" in the floor.
In the case of linoleum plate will be installed from
below. If the floor is carpeted cut a hole in the carpet
with the utility knife and slip the un-trimmed mounting
plate under the carpet. Fasten the mounting plate to the
floor with screws. A coupling and a short piece of
tubing may be required as a spacer between the mounting
plate and the 90 degree fitting below
Installing
Direct Connect Inlets
Wiring Instructions For Electric
Inlets
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HAYDEN, VACUSWEEP, VACULINE, VACUVALVE, SUPERVAC, and
SUPERHOSE are trademarks owned by Canplas Industries
Ltd. |
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New
Construction |
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1) |
Install BUILDING WIRE
CONDUCTORS (1) though the approved type electrical
CONNECTOR (2) (supplied) until they protrude
approximately six inches from connector. Seat
connector firmly into the opening atop the WIRE
COMPARTMENT (4). Insert and secure LOCKING TAB (3). |
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2) |
Splice wires from
INLET VALVE RECEPTACLE (7) to the protruding
building wire conductors with #31 TWIST-ON WIRE
CONNECTORS (8) (not supplied).
NOTE: White wire to white wire and black wire to
black wire. |
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3) |
Feed LOW VOLTAGE RELAY
WIRES (5) through opening in the LVT COVER PLATE (6)
and connect to the two contact screws of INLET VALVE
FACE PLATE (9). |
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4) |
Push Inlet Valve face
plate (10) into MOUNTING PLATE (11). At the same
time, push ELECTRICAL CONDUCTORS (12) and connectors
(8) into WIRING COMPARTMENT (4). Back out the two
screws that hold the wiring compartment in place.
Slip upper FINISHED WALL CLIP (13) under the screw
heads and tightly fasten both wiring compartment and
upper finished-wall clip(13) with MOUNTING SCREWS
(supplied). |
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5) |
Install the lower
FINISHED WALL CLIP (14) with screws (supplied). |
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6) |
Secure Inlet Valve
face plate (10) to mounting (11) using the two
supplied color matched SCREWS (15). |
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Finished Construction
After pipe, low voltage relay control wire,
electrical building wires and opening in wall have
been cut;
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1) |
Remove mounting plate
NAILING FLANGE (16). Use a hack saw or score with a
razor knife along dotted line and snap off. |
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2) |
Repeat step one (from
New Construction) |
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3) |
Install modified
mounting plate with short 90 degree elbow glued in
position into wall opening. |
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4) |
Repeat steps 2-6 (From
New Construction) |
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Beginning The Trunk Line
Central Vacuum Tips
Locate the exact path of your pipe network. Network the pipe
as short as possible, as short and direct as possible.
Reasonably short, but not just to save money.
Start with the inlet line that is farthest from the power
unit. Place 90 degree elbow onto a section of tubing and
align it with the inlet tubing at the height it will run
across the attic joists. Mark the inlet tubing where the
elbow will join, allowing 5/8" for the tubing that inserts
into the fitting's collar.
Now, cut the inlet tubing at the marked line. Make sure the
cut is straight and even. Attach the elbow and check its
fit. Then insert the first section of tubing into the other
end of the elbow.
Connecting A Branch Line
A branch line connects the inlet line to trunk line. Attach
a 90 degree elbow and run
 tubing
from the inlet line to the trunk line. To align and measure
the branch line, attach a 90 degree Tee fitting to the trunk
line. Make sure the Tee connects with the air flow going
toward the power unit. Align, measure, and mark the branch
line for inserting it into the Tee fitting. Then, cut the
branch line to length and insert it into the Tee. Check to
make sure the cut is straight and even. Connect the next
section of the tubing to the out-take side of the Tee
fitting. Continue the trunk line until you come to another
branch line junction point.
Completing The Trunk Line
Continue to run the trunk line toward the power unit,
connecting all branch lines as you go along. Again, make
sure you connect all fittings with the air flow toward the
power unit. Bring the trunk line to the access hole you have
drilled for the power unit's intake tube. Place a 90 degree
elbow over the hole and cut the trunk line to fit into this
final elbow. Allow 5/8" of tubing to fit into the elbow's
collar.
 Connect
the elbow to the trunk line so that it aligns over the
intake access hole. You will make the intake tube connection
itself after you have installed the power unit. When you are
satisfied that all fittings and tubing are aligned for
maximum air flow, make sure that all your cuts are square
and that all joints are tight. Then, prepare the tubing and
cement.
Please Note: Avoid The Following Installation Variations!
These unwise methods trap dirt.
Also, this will slow down the airflow and accumulate debris
fallen by gravity into vacuum valves installed lower than
the main line.
Assembling A Basement Trunk Line
Basically, the tubing network is assembled the same way for
a basement installation. Begin the trunk line at the
farthest inlet line from the power unit. Measure and cut the
inlet tubing to the length required to align the trunk line
with the joists or ceiling. Cement the inlet tubing and
connect at the 90 degree elbow. Make all branch line
connections in the same way you would an attic installation.
Make sure that all branch lines enter the trunk line at an
angle that is at least level with the trunk line. Make sure
all the fittings are oriented so the air flows toward the
power unit. Complete the trunk line to the power unit
location.
For
Underground Tubing
 If
the tubing is to be buried underground, dig a trench 12
to 18 inches deep along the side of the house. Fully
assemble and test the tubing and low voltage wire before
filling in the trench. It is recommended that the low
voltage wire installed outside be encased in conduit
which is available at most hardware stores. If the
tubing is to run under the eaves, the tubing must be
supported by pipe straps at least every 6 feet. On
vertical sections, carefully snap-tie the low voltage
wire behind the tubing.
The Longest Run of Tubing
Excessively long
tube runs can affect performance. Therefore, the length
of tubing running from the exhaust location to the
furthest inlet valve from the power unit should be no
longer than that recommended on the Model Selection
Chart.
Connecting
Low Voltage Wire
Ideally, you will run the wiring
 and
make all the wiring connections after you have completed
the tubing system. Of course, the inlet wiring must be
run at the time the inlet tubing is threaded though the
walls.
Run the low voltage wiring along the trunk line; at
approximately 12" - 18" intervals, use electrical tape
to secure the wire to the tubing. Then, run wiring along
the branch lines from the inlet lines to the trunk line.
Also secure this wiring with electrical tape.
At the joint of the inlet line and branch line, make a
two-wire connection. Use wire nuts to make the
connections and
 insulate
each connection with electrical tape.
At the junction of every branch line and the trunk line,
cut the trunk line wire and connect it to the branch
line wire. Connect this wiring in groups of threes - one
branch wire, one in-coming trunk line wire, and one
out-going trunk line wire. Insulate all wire connections
with electrical tape.
Complete all wiring connections up to the power unit's
intake access hole. You will make this connection when
you mount and connect the power unit. If, for some
reason, you want to connect the wire as you go along,
make the same two-wire and three-wire connections where
required.
Secure Wire To Tubing
The low-voltage power wiring is run along with the
tubing. To make sure the wire is secure and will not
hang-up in the wall, use electrical tape to attach the
wire to the tubing.
 Using
Flexible Tubing
Flexible tubing may be used to circumvent an obstacle or
to make a difficult turn. Attach this tubing to the PVC
tubing, cementing only the outside of the PVC tubing as
you would for a hard-fitting connection. Whenever you
use the flexible tubing, you must secure both ends of it
with support strapping.
Making A
Joint
Insert the tube into the fitting, aligning the two parts
as they will be installed. Mark the
 tube
and the fitting so that you can quickly realign the
joint.
Apply cement only to the outside of the tube. Dab the
cement generously in an inch-wide band. Insert the tube
into the fitting with the alignment marks a quarter turn
apart, and then quickly push and turn the fitting to
align the marks and spread the cement. Allow one minute
for the joint to dry. You may also use electrical tape
or duct tape to further seal the joint.
Cutting &
Gluing Tubes & Fittings
Measuring
When sizing tubing, measurements should be taken from
the base of the pipe located on the inside of the
fitting hub. As each section of tubing is cut, it should
be dry fitted before the next measurement is taken.
Cutting The Tubing
The tubing should be cut as straight and square as
possible. Rough edges must be removed with a utility
knife or sand paper.
Dry Fitting
Once all the pieces have been cut they should be dry
fitted to check for correct fit
and measure. The markings on each fitting can be used
for alignment.
Gluing
PVC cement actually welds the fittings to the tubing. A
chemical reaction permanently joins the molecules from
each surface to produce an airtight seal. Before
cementing, both tubing and fitting must be absolutely
free of PVC burrs, dirt and grime. Components should be
wiped with a clean cloth when necessary. Cement should
be applied liberally, but to the
TUBING ONLY. Cement applied to the fitting
will be pushed ahead and create a rough bead on the
inside of the fitting. Beads reduce air flow and could
cause clogs. The tubing should be inserted all the way
into the fitting and twisted a quarter of a turn to
distribute glue evenly. Excess cement should be wiped
away with a rag. Glue should be allowed several hours to
set before the vacuum system is used for the first time.
Please note... leakage is
the most common installation error. We find leaks in
over
50% of incorrect installations. A single leak can cause
a
15% - 20% suction loss. Can you trust your installer to
perfect the installation? Hopefully the installer is
qualified and knows what he is doing, but what about his
"side kick" who helped him that day? Leaks in a system
from a bad install result from elbows and fittings not
being glued properly, pipes not being secure enough,
missing gaskets on mounting brackets, etc. You can only
hope your installation was done right and you don't have
to worry about these scary thoughts. Unfortunately, we
do not live in a perfect world and we come across a lot
of problems stemming from not so perfect installs. I
know some of these problems may seem far fetched to some
people, but we deal with it regularly, not to mention we
are sticklers for perfection! As a do-it-yourselfer,
please remember to dot your i's and cross your t's and
really make this a well thought-out process. Like
the saying goes, "measure twice, cut once" really
applies here. You want to install your central vacuum
correctly the first time. You
can always call us at Thinkvacuums.com for technical
support.
Over
time dirt and debris build up in the pipes which can
reduce your suction by up to 6%, and inlets also warp.
For all the above reasons and more we highly recommend
doubling your square footage and selecting a larger
vacuum unit. If
you're
unsure of what size central vacuum you need, contact our
customer service at 1-800-322-2965.
For an
existing installation
You will need access to the studs either through an
attic or basement entrance location. Tubing can be
inserted between the studs from both of these locations.
Some retrofit installations run the trunk in an attic
and come down into the house inside a closet. The pipe
is run inside a closet wall and then put through the
walls to reach the room where you want the inlet.
Excessively long tube runs can affect performance.
Therefore, the length of tubing running from the exhaust
location to the furthest inlet valve from the power unit
should be no longer than that recommended on the Model
Selection Chart.
 Tubing
and low voltage wire should be run in tandem to each
valve location, speeding installation time. Both are
installed beginning with the inlet valve farthest from
the unit.
The Ranch Style House
Here the power unit is mounted
in the garage. The intake and exhaust tubing, the only
exposed tubing in the installation runs up the garage
wall and into the attic. The trunk line runs
horizontally through the attic from the power unit to
the furthest inlet location. Branch lines spread
throughout the attic, connecting the trunk line to the
inlet tubing. Each inlet tube is threaded vertically
through and inside wall. Located in hallways, and in
large rooms, the inlets are placed to provide maximum
access to all cleaning areas.
 The
Two-Story House
A double-trunk line system is commonly used in two-story
houses. The intake tubing runs up the basement wall and
connects to the main trunk line, which runs along the
unfinished basement ceiling. Two first-floor inlets are
connected to the basement trunk line by vertical inlet
lines run through interior walls. In the center of the
house, a vertical branch line runs from basement trunk
line, through stacked closets, up into the attic. A
second trunk line runs across the attic and two branch
lines connect to inlet lines which are dropped down
through upstairs interior walls.
The Split-Level House
Like the two-story house, the split level installation
commonly calls for a two-level trunk line. Here, the
power unit is located in the garage. The intake tubing
runs exposed up the garage wall and into the ground
level section's attic. Two branch lines connect this
part of the trunk line to inlet lines which are dropped
inside interior walls. A vertical branch line runs to
the upstairs attic, where the trunk line branches into a
T-shape. This trunk line connects to two upstairs inlet
lines and to one inlet which drops though an upstairs
wall and down into the third-level utility room to
services this entire level.
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Ranch Style |
Split-Level |
Two-Story |
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Power
Selection:
The most important
decision when buying a central vacuum is the core of the
central vacuum system, which is the vacuum unit itself,
which is typically located in the garage, basement or
utility room. We recommend the best power based on the size
of the home, the longest run of tubing and the number of
inlet valves. When choosing a built-in central vacuum
system, the process begins with the power unit. Power units
vary in size, motors, separation techniques, and filtration
methods. All these elements directly affect the overall
performance and cleaning power of any central vacuum system.
When choosing a central vacuum unit, the industry standard
recommendation is to take the square footage of your home
and double it, then choose the unit that's right for you in
that range. For larger sized homes from 10,000-15,000 sq.
ft. or above, we recommend 2 separate central vacuum units,
located side by side, which basically divides your home in
half so each half receives the full potential power of the
individual unit.
Central Vacuum Power Unit Location
In selecting the Power Unit Location, the following points
should be carefully considered. Install the Power Unit as
far away from the living area as possible, so that normal
activities can be carried out without any disturbing noise
that might emanate from the Power Unit while vacuum cleaning
is in progress. An ideal location for the Power Unit would
be the garage, where the unit's Inlet Valve will serve well
when you wish to vacuum you car and the exchange of the
filter will be easily facilitated. Other suitable locations
can also be found in a basement, basement crawlspace,
furnace room, under a weatherproof sundeck, laundry room,
carport or any ventilated storage area.
The Power Unit is an electrical appliance and it's location
should be near an electrical power outlet. If there is no
existing outlet available, a separate grounded circuit
should be installed. Be sure to never overload the circuit!
Check the unit's specifications for proper power supply
requirements.
Installing of Power Unit
The power unit is screwed to the wall with the bottom screws
of the mounting bracket about 48" up from the floor to
allow convenient removal of the dirt canister. For proper
motor cooling there must be at least 8" between
 the unit and
the ceiling. If mounting on plaster or panel walls, be sure
mounting bolts enter studs. If mounting on concrete wall,
drill the wall with a masonry bit and insert plastic or lead
anchors. As an alternative mounting on concrete walls, 2" x
4" studs or plywood may be suspended from overhead. With the
power unit mounted, strip the low voltage wire and crimp
into two "slip-on" terminals provided. Connect the main tube
line to the intake valve on the unit. Do not cement this
connection in case you wish to remove at a future date. For
top loading units follow directions provided with unit.
Remember: Central
vacuums must have room to breathe...
DO NOT ENCLOSE!
Exhausting The Central Vacuum Power Unit
Join tubing to the power unit's exhaust line and run the
exhaust to the outside. The exhaust should not be vented
into a wall, a ceiling, or a concealed space of the house.
The best way to exhaust the power unit is directly through
an exterior wall. You can also run the exhaust tubing though
the attic to a roof vent.
How to Vent Your Central Vacuum
System
If you choose to exhaust the
power unit outside, the length of tubing used should be no
longer than 15 feet. Click for more information on
exhausting central vacuums.
Central Vacuum -
Vacuum
Leakage Test
If the installation is done professionally, and all these
procedures duly followed, it should not be necessary to run
a vacuum leakage test.
Use a piece of wire to short-circuit the low voltage
connectors at the power units side. When all the pipes are
capped, and all the vacuum valves are closed, there should
be no air coming out after 10-15 seconds. If there is still
lots of air coming out, there is a leakage.
Important
The power unit may overheat if the pipe is clogged for more
than 30 seconds.
Central Vacuum - Final System Check
Be sure all inlets are closed and soil bag is in place.
Check switch on power unit for manual on/off operation.
Check each wall inlet to be sure contacts activate the power
unit when the hose is inserted. A short piece of wire can be
used to short contacts in the wall inlet together to
activate power unit. Check each wall inlet and tubing
connection for air leaks. Check power unit for leaks around
inlet tube and dirt receptacle. |
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